Day 19:
I left the
RV Park early hoping to be spared some traffic as I tackled the last 20 miles
of Hwy 72. The last miles of MY
independent routing, after those 20 miles, I would join the mapped route chosen
by Adventure Cycling, which would be AZ Hwy 60.
I still had
my hands full staying safe on this road, traffic was moderate so I could use my
"convergence zone" method- Riding was safe as long as traffic from
both direction didn't converge on me, if it did I stopped and waited on the
shoulder until at least one lane cleared. Sometimes a slow process, but since I
had promised Patty, when she consented to the trip, that I would come home
alive, it seemed the prudent choice.
I was
anxious, as I closed on Hwy 60, to discover if it was really going to be that
much better of a road, or not. It
was. Three glorious feet of paved
shoulder, which at times grew to six feet!!
I stopped
at the first open cafe on Hwy 60 and was greeted with several splendid things
at once. A salad bar with fresh
strawberries. I took the "one
pass" option for the salad bar, only $3- it looked like a swarm of locusts
has descended on that salad bar after I passed.
While I was polishing off the plate, they posted a sign that read "maximum
safe height on any single plate is now limited to 2 feet". I had a hamburger, too.
As I was
paying my check, the waitress insisted on filling my Camelback with fresh water
and ice. I am not exaggerating to say
that this was the first generous act by a stranger in many, many miles.
The next
town up the road had a splendid county park, right next to a golf course, so I
decided that 32 miles would be enough for the day, and paid for a camping
spot. Again, nice hot shower with no
time limit.
The camp
hosts hailed from New Jersey before retirement, now they spend their time
finding small parks where they can live in their RV and work as park hosts.
Day 20:
I left
Centennial Park headed for Wickenberg, along Hwy 60, with a beautiful 4 ft
wide, smoothly paved shoulder stretching out ahead of me as far as I could see.
Wonderful.
The day
went well, I logged 57 miles and ended at an RV park that seems to cater to
horse people- the park is called Horspitality RV Park. The owners gave me the Adventure Cycling
discount and instructed me to put my tent on the lawn of the Club House. It was luscious green grass, the first I had
camped on in what seemed like weeks, and the hot shower was only a few steps
away. One thing I have to say about this
group of horse people, and perhaps it applies universally to all horse people,
they were certainly friendly and respectful.
The park was huge, but clean and well maintained.
Day 21:
I left
Horspitality RV Park headed for downtown Tempe, where I could visit REI and
pick up my new tent. My MSR tent was
having problems with its seams leaking, so the manufacturer agreed to replace
my one year old tent with a new improved model.
I had purchased the tent on the Web, so exchanging the tents was going
to require a real store- REI agreed to help.
The route
carried me through a lot of urban riding, including a 20 mile section of the
Arizona Canal System. Unlike California,
a state which also has hundreds of miles of irrigation canals, Arizona is happy
to share these wonders with the biking community. In California, I could find only two bike
trails along canals in the entire state- many other trails had once existed,
but were closed due to "safety" reasons. In Arizona, there were paved biking trails
along just about every canal I crossed. All I can deduce from this is that the
residents of Arizona must be much more capable cyclists- I did not see a single
cyclist careen off the path and end up in the canal.
Cycling
through towns, especially large towns like Phoenix, can be a slow process. The volume of traffic always increases, as
does the number of traffic signals, so one spends a lot of time waiting for the
light to change to green. Plus, it is a lot easier to get off course and add
unintentional miles to the day.
My route
took me past ASU, in Tempe. It was a beautiful
sunny day, and on the north end of the extremely modern looking campus there is
a lake to behold. The crew teams, men
and women's, were all out on the water, or carrying boats everywhere. The one end of the lake looked like a yacht
club; little marinas, party boats with
the ASU logo on the side, docks, and swarms of rowers. Tyler, you might want to check this campus
out, but don't forget to factor the cost of sunscreen into your tuition budget.
I spent the
night at my trusty motel of choice, Motel 6.
Across the street, lucky for me, was a nice brew pub and pizza
restaurant. I ordered a huge salad and a
deep dish pizza all for just me. It took
a while but I managed to consume all but two pieces, which ended up as
breakfast the next morning.
I had a big
first today: I passed my first 1,000 miles.
I logged 76 miles for the day and the odometer was resting on 1,005 when
the cycling day ended.
Day 22 (Feb
25th):
An early
start from Tempe, more urban cycling, and then back on Hwy 60 headed east towards
my destination- another Warm Showers rendezvous in Superior, AZ. The highway was crowded but for the most part
the cycling was straightforward, stay outside the solid white line. But there
was one vexing peculiarity to this recently repaved road, about every 2-3 miles
there would be a guardrail that would "funnel" me into the traffic
lane. With the traffic as heavy as it
was (It was Saturday, and there was a Renaissance Fair going on about 20 miles
down the road, which accounted for at least one half of the traffic) this
required that I stop and wait for a cessation of traffic before I sprinted the
one hundred yards required to clear the pesky guardrail blocking the
shoulder. After a few of these, I began
to see the reason for them.
This
country has hundreds of signs along the roadways, warning motorists that there
is a danger of "flash floods".
The land has many "washes" which are all dry as a bone now,
but which must rage with fury when thunderstorms dump water quickly on this
desert soil. So the highways all have
crossings for these washes, sometimes these crossings are simply a severe dip
in the roadway, allowing the flood waters to wash over the pavement, on more
travelled highways, there is an actual passage under the roadway- sort of a
mini bridge. Hwy 60 had these mini
bridges, and it was at each of these water overcrossings that one would find
this somewhat dangerous (only for the cyclist) guardrail. The guardrails narrowed the roadway keeping
errant cars from leaving the roadway and abruptly dropping into these dry
ravines. But they forced me onto the
actual roadway; with the heavy weekend traffic headed to the festival, I had to
stop and yield to the cars at each intruding rail. It helped me drink more, since I could guzzle
water while waiting for the traffic to abate.
Today's
route had another first, a flat tire.
Drat. And the worst tire, the
rear bike tire. The makers of the BOB
trailer recommend that the trailer be unloaded prior to removal from the bike,
the fully loaded trailer is very unwieldy and attaching or detaching it to the
bike when it is loaded is a two person job.
I had been practicing the art of attaching the trailer fully loaded, now
the flat tire put me to the test- sadly it put me to the test twice, so let me
explain.
I quickly
found the problem, a staple had penetrated the tire on the side wall; it completely
missed the Kevlar band that protects the
tire where it meets the road and punctured the tube in two spots. I repaired both punctures (during the repair
I was reminded how quickly glue tubes dry out once the seal is punctured, I was
carrying two already opened glue tubes- both dry. Luckily I also had two new, unopened repair
kits), reassembled the tire, reattached the trailer, and cycled nearly a mile
before I had to repeat the process.
In an
effort to protect against flats, I had not only installed Kevlar belted tires
on the bike (for some reason I overlooked the trailer tire during this process,
it still sports a normal tire) but also installed "thorn-proof"
tubes. The tubes are heavy, but I hate
fixing flats, so it seemed like a good tradeoff. Unfortunately, the staple had punctured the
tube right at the edge of the special "thorn-proofing", so although
the patch looked good when applied, during inflation to full pressure the patch
tore away from the tube. My guess is the
tube stretches very little, if any, where the tube is thickened for the thorn-proofing,
and stretches quite a lot where it is built like a normal tube. The patch that failed straddled the different
zones of the tube. I was hot and hungry,
and ready to be done for the day, so I installed my backup tube and finished
the ride.
I was
planning to stay with a Warm Showers host for the night, but I didn't expect to
have an entire house to myself. The
hosts are an older couple that own two houses in town, the one that they are
slowly remodeling they leave available for visiting cyclists. They had some great stories about recent
visitors. I most remember the couple
traveling from BC to Costa Rico with two children- the youngsters where
somewhere around 6 and 8 years old and travelling in Tag-Alongs. How the two
adults managed two young kids, camping gear, and these tough roads I have no
idea. Stories like this one always
remind me that I shouldn't complain about trying conditions, many have done it
under more trying circumstances.
The day
ended with 57 miles.
Day 23:
I knew that
I had the first of many mountain climbs ahead of me today, so I started as
early as I dared. One of the small problems
headed east, is that if one starts too early in the day motorists are looking
into a bright sun as they approach you, making planning for a safe pass even
more unlikely than usual. So I wanted an early start but no sun directly in the
driver’s eyes.
I had been
warned that the first 11 miles was straight climbing, most of it with no
shoulder. I was glad to find that the
gravest part of that information was incorrect.
The climbing part was dead-on, but gratefully, there was either a
shoulder or a passing lane for much of the climb. This day's ride was basically the equivalent
of a ride up Dead Indian and then on to Lake of the Woods. There was some screaming downhill, too. Again, holding my speed to 25 mph on some of
the steeper parts left some of my brake pads behind.
Two factors
made this a short mileage day, the first being the 4,000 ft or so of climbing,
the second was the fact that I was about to enter an Apache Indian
Reservation. It seems that the safest
tack is to plan on staying on the western edge of the reservation (oddly, at a
large Indian casino) for the night, and then shooting across the reservation in
a single day, stopping after a minimum of 50 cycling miles. That seemed convenient, so that was the plan I
adopted.
57 miles
for the day, unlimited hot showers at the casino RV park, and a nice night of
camping.
Day
24: (Feb 27, 2012):
The weather
forecast for today is anticipating SSE winds of 25 mph by mid-day, with gusts
to 40 mph. Since I am heading in a SE
direction, with a need to cycle a minimum of 47 miles, I decided today would be
a rest day. I think I have cycled 8 or 9
days since my last rest day, so I am due.
I wish I
was spending my slack day somewhere a little less commercial, instead of
camping on the lot of a major casino, but we will make due, BOB and I. BOB is going to sit in the sun all day and
rest his wheel bearings and I am going to investigate the casino restaurant and
discover if they are offering any legendary casino all-you-can-eat buffets.
The weather
forecast is predicting more co-operative winds on Tuesday, but along with the
friendlier winds comes cooling temperatures.
The high tomorrow is expected to be mid 50's and the low tomorrow night
29 degrees! I will spend part of my day
today perusing the motels ahead.
0 miles today.
